Kada je kaseta tipa 12-23 Sora 8brzina i 11-32(A obe su drumske )koja je za sta,ili sta se kojom dobija???Razumem da je prvi prsten (najmanji)ima 11-12 zuba a 23-32 su (najvec)poslednji ...
Kasete
Started By
Nion
, Jul 11 2009 08:10 PM
21 odgovora na ovu temu
#2
mixitron
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Postavljeno 11 July 2009 - 08:22 PM
Više zuba na zupčaniku = niži stepen prenosa = lakše uzbrdo. Ako nisi životinjko, uzmi ovu 11-32 
Ova druga ima mali 'korak' od brzine do brzine i zgodna je za održavanje kadence. Visoki stepeni prenosa = brzina ako imaš snagu.
Ova druga ima mali 'korak' od brzine do brzine i zgodna je za održavanje kadence. Visoki stepeni prenosa = brzina ako imaš snagu.
#3
Nion
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Postavljeno 11 July 2009 - 08:36 PM
znaci kasete sa manjim rastojanjem 12-23 je za brda?a ova sa vecim 11-32 za brzinu ako sam dobro razumeo ??? 
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Moj zanat mi je dao vrh sa koga ću pasti“... Ako ste dostigli vrh, onda i pad može da bude veličanstven!“ D.V
#4
gilgames
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#6
Nion
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Postavljeno 11 July 2009 - 08:48 PM
znaci kasete sa manjim rastojanjem 12-23 je za brda?a ova sa vecim 11-32 za brzinu ako sam dobro razumeo ???
znaci kasete sa manjim rastojanjem 12-23 je za brzinu,a ova sa vecim 11-32 za brda
](https://www.2bike.rs/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/eusa_wall.gif)
5500km-2010
6400km-2011
3800km-2012
6080km-2013
7660km-2014
8500km-2015
5000km-2016
Moj zanat mi je dao vrh sa koga ću pasti“... Ako ste dostigli vrh, onda i pad može da bude veličanstven!“ D.V
#7
gamzzy
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#8
marko
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Postavljeno 11 July 2009 - 10:35 PM
sa 11-23 bi trebalo da se popnes skoro svuda a ako bas zapinje nadji 12-27 ili 12-28 (jel treba da bude 8faz ? ) .
A ako imas u planu tanjiracu (11-32) uzmi slobodno i neki MTB menjac jer kapacitet road menjaca je 28 ili 29 zuba max.
A ako imas u planu tanjiracu (11-32) uzmi slobodno i neki MTB menjac jer kapacitet road menjaca je 28 ili 29 zuba max.
a više od toga,recimo 90kg. ili 100-tada
#10
Gadjan
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Postavljeno 26 August 2009 - 10:25 PM
A može li da se nađe 11-34 pa makar menjao i glavu? Meni se posrećilo za takav, sedmofazni, samo nije kasetni već onaj običan na navrtanje. A kad se istroši i dođe vreme za zamenu, voleo bih isto tako neki superwide, da bude i za zaletanje i za penjanje.
i za penjanje.
#11
mixitron
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Postavljeno 26 August 2009 - 10:35 PM
Kod nas ih ima od sram-a i od shimano-a, to su tipične penzoske MTB kasete (ozbiljni voze 11-32 
)
)
#12
Gadjan
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Postavljeno 05 September 2009 - 09:10 AM
Ljudi,mogu li nekako da odvrnem ovo bez ključa za sedmofaze (koji nemam). Pravim najzad generalku posle sto godina i ispade da ne mogu izvaditi osovinu od freewheel-a pa samim tim ni prići kuglicama. Dok sam imao 14-28 mogao sam srediti glavu bez skidanja. Ima ta četiri zareza, vidi se i na dnu linka lepo rastavljeno http://www.sheldonbrown.com/mega7 mogu li to nečim da ščepam jer kuckanje ne pomaže, jako je stegnuto pedalanjem. Znam da i sa ključem ide nenormalno teško. Čisto sumnjam da imam šanse, al aj da pitam dok ne dignem ruke, dok je još rasklopljeno. Nije problem ni da odšpartam 100 km do Zrenjanina i nazad po ključ
ali ko će posle opet rastavljati.
#14
Gadjan
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Postavljeno 06 September 2009 - 10:38 AM
E hvala, ali odustao sam juče pa sam sklopio, a i žurilo mi se da isprobam nove gume . Moram da kupim taj ključ, jer kad se setim kako smo prodavac i ja skidali stari freewheel, ja držim točak a on nogom i celom težinom na polugu .
. Moram da kupim taj ključ, jer kad se setim kako smo prodavac i ja skidali stari freewheel, ja držim točak a on nogom i celom težinom na polugu .
#15
astrodule
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Postavljeno 06 September 2009 - 11:51 AM
ja držim točak a on nogom i celom težinom na polugu
Najbolje je ako imas stegu na stolu, pa u stegu ubacis onaj deo za skidanje kasete, pa zavrtis tocak (veca poluga i mnogo bezbednije nego skakanje po poluzi
)
Per Aspera Ad Astra
http://www.dusanpopovic.com - Trčanje, bajs, planinarenje, putovanja, kuvanje...
http://www.dusanpopovic.com - Trčanje, bajs, planinarenje, putovanja, kuvanje...
#16
Gadjan
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Postavljeno 15 March 2010 - 08:03 PM
Evo me opet, isti freewheel, ovog puta imam ključ, skinuo, oprao, ali novi problem. Suvo je, čuje se dosta, grebe i nervira me. Ne mogu potpuno da rastavim, dakle da dođem do kuglica da bih napunio mašću. Znači trebam ovo:
da pretvorim u ovo:
Znači taj obeleženi deo da odvrnem, samo ne znam kakav je navoj. Malo sam kucao u obe strane bez uspeha, a jače ne smem dok ne budem siguran u smer navoja. Ima ta četiri zareza ali ne znam čime bih mogao to da uhvatim, pa da odvrnem ključem. Jedino mi čekić i šrafciger padaju na pamet.
da pretvorim u ovo:
Znači taj obeleženi deo da odvrnem, samo ne znam kakav je navoj. Malo sam kucao u obe strane bez uspeha, a jače ne smem dok ne budem siguran u smer navoja. Ima ta četiri zareza ali ne znam čime bih mogao to da uhvatim, pa da odvrnem ključem. Jedino mi čekić i šrafciger padaju na pamet.
#17
mixitron
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Postavljeno 15 March 2010 - 08:33 PM
Servicing Freewheels
Note: I advise against doing this, because it is generally not worth the trouble. The freewheel is the least important bearing on a bicycle, since it only turns when it is not carrying any load.
Nevertheless, some people will ignore my advice and try to service freewheels, so here's how to do it:
Screw the freewheel onto a wheel so that you will have something to hold it with.
You should see a ring with two holes in it for a pin spanner to fit into. This is usually the ring which has the brand name of the freewheel marked, and may also have an arrow pointing clockwise, and the word "remove" in one language or another.
If you don't see such a ring, you may need to remove the smallest sprocket to gain access to it. This is common on freewheels with 13 tooth or smaller sprockets. You will need two chain whips, one to unscrew the smallest sprocket, another hold the freewheel so that it doesn't spin backward while you unscrew the top sprocket.
Use a hammer and punch (or an old flat-blade screwdriver) to drive the ring in a clockwise direction. This ring is actually a bearing cone with a left ("reverse") thread, and once you have removed it you will see a row of 1/8" bearing balls and a stack of very thin washers surrounding the threads that the cone threaded on to. These are shim washers, and you can remove one or more of them to make the bearing tighter, if the freewheel has too much play.
If you want to disassemble it further, just lift off the cluster at this point and the innards will be revealed to you, including another row of 1/8" balls at the base of the freewheel, and two or three spring-loaded pawls which make the ratchet work.
For re-assembly, you can use thickish grease to stick the balls in place while you reassemble the unit, but the tricky part is the pawls. In days of yore, there were special bobby-pin-like clips to hold the pawls compressed against their springs while you re-assembled the freewheel. These are no longer available.
Instead of the special clips, you can use a rubber band with a piece of thread looped though it. Assemble the pawls to the freewheel core, then wrap the rubber band around them to hold them against their springs.
Once the outer part of the freewheel is more-or-less in place, use the thread to pull the rubber band out through the middle of the freewheel.
Note: I advise against doing this, because it is generally not worth the trouble. The freewheel is the least important bearing on a bicycle, since it only turns when it is not carrying any load.
Nevertheless, some people will ignore my advice and try to service freewheels, so here's how to do it:
Screw the freewheel onto a wheel so that you will have something to hold it with.
You should see a ring with two holes in it for a pin spanner to fit into. This is usually the ring which has the brand name of the freewheel marked, and may also have an arrow pointing clockwise, and the word "remove" in one language or another.
If you don't see such a ring, you may need to remove the smallest sprocket to gain access to it. This is common on freewheels with 13 tooth or smaller sprockets. You will need two chain whips, one to unscrew the smallest sprocket, another hold the freewheel so that it doesn't spin backward while you unscrew the top sprocket.
Use a hammer and punch (or an old flat-blade screwdriver) to drive the ring in a clockwise direction. This ring is actually a bearing cone with a left ("reverse") thread, and once you have removed it you will see a row of 1/8" bearing balls and a stack of very thin washers surrounding the threads that the cone threaded on to. These are shim washers, and you can remove one or more of them to make the bearing tighter, if the freewheel has too much play.
If you want to disassemble it further, just lift off the cluster at this point and the innards will be revealed to you, including another row of 1/8" balls at the base of the freewheel, and two or three spring-loaded pawls which make the ratchet work.
For re-assembly, you can use thickish grease to stick the balls in place while you reassemble the unit, but the tricky part is the pawls. In days of yore, there were special bobby-pin-like clips to hold the pawls compressed against their springs while you re-assembled the freewheel. These are no longer available.
Instead of the special clips, you can use a rubber band with a piece of thread looped though it. Assemble the pawls to the freewheel core, then wrap the rubber band around them to hold them against their springs.
Once the outer part of the freewheel is more-or-less in place, use the thread to pull the rubber band out through the middle of the freewheel.
#18
Hari
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Postavljeno 16 March 2010 - 03:59 AM
Samo da dodam da prilikom skidanja tog prstena moras jace udarati Levi je navoj sto znaci odvrce se u smeru kazaljke na satu. Okreni bajs i sipaj malo ulja da udje unutra i grebanje ce prestati pa nemas potrebe za otvaranjem.
Levi je navoj sto znaci odvrce se u smeru kazaljke na satu. Okreni bajs i sipaj malo ulja da udje unutra i grebanje ce prestati pa nemas potrebe za otvaranjem.
#19
Gadjan
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Postavljeno 16 March 2010 - 06:47 AM
Ljudi, puno vam hvala! Danas ću da probam.
. Mislio sam već i da ponovo odustanem pa da nekako napunim masti bar u ovaj gornji red kuglica koji vidim ili sipam ulja što Hari kaže, ali izješće me to, moram da ga otvorim da se svojim očima uverim da je sve u redu. Čuje se tačno tako, kao da su suve kuglice, ali i kao da imaju malčice lufta pa onako krckaju dok se pomeraju (to se čuje pod prstima kad stiskam prsten, i pri prvom opterećenju na pedale, pa zato tako mislim). Mix, sjajan je tekst, sad sam konačno shvatio za šta služe oni prstenčići (shim washers), tako da pretpostavljam da bi izbacivanje jednog pomoglo, probaću...
Ovo kod mene nikad nije važiloNote: I advise against doing this, because it is generally not worth the trouble.
. Mislio sam već i da ponovo odustanem pa da nekako napunim masti bar u ovaj gornji red kuglica koji vidim ili sipam ulja što Hari kaže, ali izješće me to, moram da ga otvorim da se svojim očima uverim da je sve u redu. Čuje se tačno tako, kao da su suve kuglice, ali i kao da imaju malčice lufta pa onako krckaju dok se pomeraju (to se čuje pod prstima kad stiskam prsten, i pri prvom opterećenju na pedale, pa zato tako mislim). Mix, sjajan je tekst, sad sam konačno shvatio za šta služe oni prstenčići (shim washers), tako da pretpostavljam da bi izbacivanje jednog pomoglo, probaću...
#20
Gadjan
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Postavljeno 16 March 2010 - 09:03 PM
Uspeo sam, uz pomoć srpskog ključa , trebalo je malo jače. Stavio novu mast, naređao 92 kuglice, smorih se. Moglo je i s uljem ko što Hari reče, ne verujem da bi bilo razlike, sitne su to kuglice. Ali i izbacio sam jedan tanak prstenčić koji je bio pukao, sad nema lufta i ne krcka. Ima čak pet, jedan od milimetar, dva od 0.5 i dva tanja od žileta. Još jednom hvala na asistenciji.
, trebalo je malo jače. Stavio novu mast, naređao 92 kuglice, smorih se. Moglo je i s uljem ko što Hari reče, ne verujem da bi bilo razlike, sitne su to kuglice. Ali i izbacio sam jedan tanak prstenčić koji je bio pukao, sad nema lufta i ne krcka. Ima čak pet, jedan od milimetar, dva od 0.5 i dva tanja od žileta. Još jednom hvala na asistenciji.
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